DIY Retro Rainbow Wooden Dresser

DIY Retro Rainbow Wooden Dresser

in case you need a specific size, style, or color of cloth wardrobe however are having a difficult time finding it, did you already know you could make one yourself? You dont even need a bunch of fancy tools (despite the fact that, Im no longer going to lie, theyd sure make this task easier!). in this academic, unwell show you the way to build a DIY modern wooden cloth cabinet so as to final for ages. Youll want lots of endurance and precision, however once the venture is completed, my hope is that you virtually like it.

materials needed (all pieces had been cut with a miter noticed and round saw with kreg rip reduce, even though a table saw would be useful for the bigger plywood cuts):

this is a caricature of the wardrobe frame, whole with all measurements. Use those numbers to measure and mark your cloth wardrobe frame.

Take a 50-1/4 mission panel, a good way to be certainly one of your facets. decide which face you want as the out of doors of your cloth cabinet, and which give up you need to be the pinnacle. Label the corners therefore. I promise you, it would feel silly, however the more you label, the less complicated (and extra accurate) things will be as you begin to truly get into the constructing technique.

Now its time to measure and mark all the strains on your internal aspect panel for horizontal helps. start from the bottom cease of your facet panel, and use the comic strip to mark your measurements.

Tip: be sure to measure and mark each aspects of the facet panel AND use a square while you draw these strains, so your drawers and supports might be stage.

Make some Xs on the pinnacle facet of your line. that is to designate which facet of the road to position your horizontal slabs when the time comes. Get into the addiction of doing this. degree and mark 3/four″ up out of your line, which is the thickness of the panel youll be attaching, then measure and mark eight-1/4 up from that line. location your Xs, then degree and mark three/4″ up to designate placement of the panel. measure and mark 15-3/four up from this top line, and every other 3/four″ up from that (location your Xs inside these lines). You need to have precisely eight-1/4 out of your last line to the top of your side panel. in case you dont, go returned and degree to discern out where the difference is. Exactness is key for constructing a cloth cabinet. Repeat this entire procedure on the inner of your 2nd facet (50-1/4) panel.

Now take your three mission panels which can be 29-3/4 in duration. these will be the horizontal supports in your wardrobe frame.

the usage of your jig set to 3/4″, drill three pocket holes along every cease of your 3 panels.

Take your two smallest (8-1/four) mission panels, and repeat the pocket hollow procedure. Youll need the holes along the 16 side, even though, no longer the shorter side on those panels.

Take one in all your 29-three/4 slabs and location it pocket-hole-facet-down. degree and draw a line at 7-1/2 from one side. Mark your Xs on the far facet of your line, and label which facet of the board might be the front. Repeat to your different 29-3/4 slab, making sure that the 2 forums are reflect photos when the front is labeled.

With the pocket holes facing the quick quit and with front ends aligned, function an eight-1/4 panel onto the line of your 29-3/four slab.

the two need to be perpendicular. region a massive of wooden glue at the stop of your small panel, then reposition.

cozy with a proper-attitude clamp, then connect the forums together with 1-1/four pocket screws.

Pause the entirety for a minute. This next step goes to feel completely out of place, but accept as true with me. Its the way to head. grab a set of your 14 european backside nook mount drawer slides. had been going to install multiple the pieces now, earlier than we circulate directly to the relaxation of our wardrobe frame. Thats because, as soon as the eight-1/four square field is absolutely shaped, it will likely be hard (if not impossible) to put in the slides. So have been doing it now.

area a scrap piece of three/four″ thick lumber at the short corner of your joint, at the the front facet. Mark the three/4 position from the front part. This permits to your drawer faces to retract into your cloth cabinet, instead of protrude out, giving the complete dresser face a flat, present day appearance.

the usage of the commands on your drawer slides, select up the proper piece (proper side) and loosely position it against the 3/4″ board or your three/4″ line, keeping all front factors in thoughts (on your body and the drawer slide).

Screw drawer slide area. Tip: preserve the front quit of your slide flawlessly flush along with your line, or 1/sixteen in the back of it. Its better to err barely at the facet of being too a long way in than too far out, although I endorse precision on every occasion possible.

Set that apart for a minute, and take your left facet (50-1/four) panel. do not forget how you marked 15-three/four up from the lowest of the panel, after which every other 3/4″ up from that line? Youre now going to use this 2d line (the three/four″ one) to put in the left facet of your drawer slide. vicinity your 3/4″ scrap wooden on the the front quit of your facet panel, and mark the line.

function the front of your drawer slide at once against the two three/4″ strains. Screw into vicinity.

The left side task panel will appearance something like this.

This next component is hard, and frankly now not extremely good expert. Theres no manner you could connect the top horizontal help slab to the short slab with a drill at this point, due to the fact theres just no longer enough head area. instead, you may do what I did: location the second (mirror picture) 29-3/4 task panel on your workspace, pocket holes dealing with down. Run a bit timber glue on the cut quit of your short (and now connected) eight-1/4 slab. function the gluey cease onto the Xs of your 29-three/4 piece. clamp into area along with your proper-angle clamp, and use a drill bit to cozy 1-1/4 pocket screws with the aid of hand. Use pliers toward the quit to tighten them up if you want.

Tip: Use the spare 8-1/four slab to prop up the alternative cease of your 29-three/4 slabs while you connect the primary one.

on the non-pocket-hollow side of the 1/3 29-three/4 slab, measure and mark 7-half of in from the proper facet (after determining which side may be the front). Draw your Xs at the some distance side of the line. Glue, then attach the second 8-1/four slab onto the Xs. deploy your left backside drawer slide in this 8-1/4 slab (dont neglect to put in it three/four″ from the the front). Your primary horizontal supports are completed!

in your proper facet (50-1/4) slab, at the very pinnacle line that have to be eight-1/4 from the pinnacle, area your three/four″ scrap board at the the front facet, draw your line, then deploy the right drawer slide. The interior of your two facet slabs need to look something like this.

(note: if you forgot to do pocket holes in your 29-three/4 slabs, or in the event that they by accident ended up on the incorrect facet, by no means worry. Its awkward, however you may drill new pocket holes onto those forums, even after theyve been connected.)

Dill 3 pocket holes onto each interior stop (pinnacle and bottom) of your two aspect panels. be sure these are the interiors!

Its time to connect the pinnacle and backside slabs to the sides. seize your wooden glue (you can use what youd like, but I actually love Gorilla wooden glue).

Run a bead of wooden glue on the lowest fringe of a facet slab. No, it doesnt have to be so much that it drips off the stop i used to be sluggish getting this image snapped. Apologies.

Use the proper-perspective clamp to cozy the side slabs on pinnacle of the lowest mission panel (preserving the front edges in mind, constantly). attach with 1-1/four pocket screws. Repeat for the second side panel. Tip: Its exceptional/easiest to have a helper with this step, to hold the larger aspect panels upright even as you connect them.

Use a rectangular to check for 90 diploma corners, then connect the pinnacle slab onto the top edges of your (gluey) facet panels inside the equal manner.

Use a three/four″ scrap piece of lumber to mark a 3/4″ line all of the way up the the front ends of both your facet panels. this may make it an awful lot easier whilst its time to install all the drawer slides.

if you forgot to add Xs or mark the 3/four″ lines in your facet panels, achieve this now.

Loosely slide your horizontal help boards into the frame, preserving in thoughts front ends with the whole thing (frame and helps). function them along your marked Xs and between your three/4″ line areas. you can try to glue these in case you want, but I didnt.

Align precisely, then connect all horizontal aid forums via the pocket holes with 1-1/four pocket screws. Use your right-angle clamp to keep things into vicinity. Youll want to copy the hand-tightening method for the pinnacle right square hole. Sorry.

along with your guide boards solidly and precisely in location, its time to attach the fake help boards. those are the 1x2s that run horizontally, in the front and in back, between the drawers everywhere theres no longer an real guide board.

Drill a pocket hole into the ends of every of your 1×2 forums.

Glue, role, then connect each 1×2 board in area, aligned with the front and back ends of your frame within the measured and marked 3/4″ areas.

Pocket holes can face up or down, it doesnt virtually rely due to the fact they wont be seen once the drawers are installed.

check for ninety tiers and stage after each set up; its a whole lot simpler to alternate something now than it is later on, whilst everythings intact and in region.

cautiously flip your frame up or down or sideways when youre putting in the 1x2s. i discovered it simplest and greater reliable to be screwing downward, so I chose to lay the frame on its aspect whilst putting in the pocket screws.

that is what your dresser frame will appear to be at this factor. note the 1×2 fake assist boards on both the front and back facets of your cloth wardrobe.

Arent we satisfied we already installed those drawer slides into the tiny squares? (answer: yes, we are ecstatic approximately that.)

earlier than moving on, you might select to fill your pocket holes with some pocket hollow plugs.

After doing a dry match to make sure theyre the right size (I needed to trim mine), lay a huge drop of glue into the pocket hole.

Slide the pocket hollow plug into the hole.

clean it out, casting off any extra glue that squeezed out as wanted. Repeat for any pocket holes you need to fill.

Use your three/4″ scrap wooden to mark the 3/4″ strains from the the front facet on any horizontal aid forums that would need marking.

Its now time to install all of the drawer slides to your frame. Use a straight part to attract lines from the pinnacle and bottom edges of your 1×2 helps; those will serve as a guideline to your drawer slides.

maintaining in mind the the front end (usually), select the proper and left slides correctly.

Use three screws per drawer slide to install alongside the top line of every 1×2 aid board. make sure every slide is installed at the three/four″ mark (3/4 faraway from the front edge).

With all the drawer slides installed onto your cloth cabinet frame, its time to construct the actual drawers. every drawer, no matter the dimensions, could be attached with the back and front faces sandwiched between the ends of the 14 side boards. Drill two pocket holes consistent with side of each front and back board. those are all the 1×6 and 1×3 boards that are not 14 long. You must have twenty (20) overall.

Use glue, your proper-attitude clamp, and 1-1/four pocket screws to construct your drawers. test for 90 ranges after every attachment so your drawer is flawlessly squared off.

Tip: area the pocket holes outward. The drawer face will cowl them up in the front, and it doesnt matter they display on the again of your drawer. Plus, you dont want pocket holes snagging your garments internal your drawer, proper?

Do one drawer at a time, so its flawlessly customized to the drawer area. in case you find a drawer is a chunk tight, shave a touch off the back and front board ends before you build the drawer.

Label every drawer to match the placement within the cloth wardrobe.

With the drawers built, its time to put in your drawer-hooked up drawer slides. conserving the slides up towards the bottom of your drawer, push the drawer into its position in the wardrobe.

The drawer must slide inside and out with no trouble. If there are any modifications you want to make, achieve this now. with any luck, you wont want to trade something due to the fact youve constructed each drawer custom to its slot in the dresser.

region the 1/4″ plywood piece that has been reduce to suit that particular drawer for your workspace, at the side of the two drawer slides and the drawer itself.

decide which aspect of the drawer you need to be the top and the front. Set at the plywood to ensure the drawer bottom fits.

Run a bead of timber glue alongside the lowest fringe of your drawer.

area the drawer backside at the glue.

square up and hold in vicinity at the same time as you nail the drawer bottom to the drawer walls.

role the front ends of your drawer slides against the furthest factor out at the the front give up of your drawer. (In a really perfect global, the whole the front quit might be perfectly aligned with all portions. This become no longer precisely the case with me, however it become close. Im calling that a victory.)

The back give up of the drawer slide can hit everywhere; dont fear approximately aligning that with whatever.

connect the drawer slide with screws.

Roll the drawer into its rightful slot.

Hooray. Now, you would possibly observe that, on this instance, the proper side of the drawer itself is set 1/eight higher than the left aspect. at the same time as no longer best, this isn't always something to worry too much approximately, due to the fact youll be attaching a drawer face to the front of the drawer, and you can regulate that to fit the slot perfectly.

retain mounting all drawer slides to the bottom of the drawers, one at a time, customizing the in shape of each drawer as you cross.

when all drawers are constructed and rolling, its time to attach their drawer faces. After verifying that the face suits perfectly into the slot (there ought to be approximately a 1/8 gap round all aspects), lay the face down beneath the drawer so the returned, bottom end of the face aligns with the installed drawer.

Use a pencil to mark the placement of the vertical part of the drawer slide. this may help you align the drawer face flawlessly onto the drawer itself. also, maintaining the drawer face in vicinity up against the drawer itself, leaf through the space at the lowest of the drawer face closer to the drawer slides. be aware of in which, vertically speaking, the bottom edge of the drawer face hits the drawer itself. Like, does it hit midway up the drawer slide metal, or does it cover it completely, or something. this could help the drawer face set up with precision.

Pull out the drawer, then run a few glue alongside the front.

the use of your pencil markings as a manual, align and then function the drawer face onto the gluey drawer.

while its aligned, clamp the drawer face into place.

Use 1 or 1-1/4 brad nails to attach the drawer face to the drawer.

Slide lower back into its slot, and circulate onto the following drawer. customise every drawer face, making adjustments (sand/shave off facets if wished) as you move so each drawer suits squarely and beautifully.

It makes a large difference within the look of the dresser while the drawer faces are on, doesnt it?

I mainly like how the faces create a flat surface on the the front of the wardrobe, due to the fact they're inset three/four″ from the the front part. stunning!

don't forget how youve labeled each drawer and its correlating slot in the cloth cabinet? That comes in available now that its time to sand and paint.

Use satisfactory-grit sandpaper, and sand all the surfaces of every drawer, particularly the face. Take care to no longer sand too much off the corners of your boards, even though, to maintain them squared off and modern.

Sand the perimeters and edges, too, maintaining in mind that those interior drawer surfaces wont be dealt with with whatever, so that they want to be extra clean.

before we paint, nicely need to fill a few holes. wherever your wood itself has holes, or in which theres a gap in a joint, or whatever, youll want to spend a couple of minutes and fill the holes now.

Use a putty knife to unfold the wood filler into the holes. This includes the holes from the brad nails at the drawer faces.

easy it out, and permit it dry.

when the wooden filler is dry, sand it clean.

you could see in which the timber filler became implemented (splotchy brown), however to touch, the floor is clean.

After sanding, wipe everything clean.

high, then paint the whole lot. The body is painted Benjamin Moores robust White.

these are the colours used for this precise wardrobe. they may be all Benjamin Moore paints. From top of the wardrobe to the lowest, they're called: Starburst Orange, Hydrangea flowers, Melon Popsicle, sparkling Air, Acadia inexperienced, Bahaman Sea Blue, Blue Lapis, and Symphony Blue. you can mix up sample paints at your nearby paint save for a much less high priced manner to get a rainbow of colors.

Paint the sides of your drawer faces.

Paint the faces of your drawer faces, then double test all the aspects to make certain there arent drips or bumps. preserve brush strokes all going inside the identical course. Tip: I used a brush at the drawer faces because I didnt need to use 8 specific foam roller pads. you may absolutely use foam rollers for a smoother appearance.

provide all the drawer faces or 3 coats, permitting them to dry completely among every coat.

Tip: I used 8 hues and painted the 2 units of slimmer drawers the equal shade. This coloration blocking labored nicely, keeping all colorings at the identical verticality.

whilst the body paint is dry, you could deploy the cloth wardrobe legs. this situation uses capita legs from Ikea. those are a touch extra than 4 tall.

install the leg plates into the corners of the bottom of your cloth wardrobe.

Screw the capita legs onto the leg plates. alter for stage, if vital.

whilst your drawer faces have dried absolutely, installation your hardware. Use a template, predrill, and attach the handles.

Tip: If youre installing handles (versus pulls), install the drawers into your leveled dresser, then use a level to mark the predrill holes. due to the fact each drawer face turned into custom designed to the drawer slot, it won't be exactly stage on its very own. in case you dont need to cope with level hardware, select pulls as an alternative.

position the body in your area, then deploy the drawers.

One component i love approximately capita legs is that they are adjustable, so irrespective of how choppy or slanted your ground is, your furniture piece can be level.

Congratulations! done!

You just constructed a beautiful, present day dresser with lots of style and functionality.

one among my favorite factors of this cloth wardrobe is the unfashionable rainbow shade palette.

I assume ombre would appearance truly exceptional at the drawers, too, in case you didnt want to trouble with shopping for a gaggle of different colors. either way, i hope you enjoy constructing your own cloth wardrobe, and that you love the stop result for years to come. happy DIYing!

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